Theatre and pigtailed wigs - there is far more to Salzburg than that, and more than the Salzburg Festival and Mozart, as well. This guide to the more intimate aspects of Salzburg will lead you to places known, at best, only to the natives, and often not even to them - such as a network of medieval tunnels, chamois living in freedom in the middle of town, who just found it too boring in the mountains, even living urban flamingos. There are a surf wave in the Alpine Canal, a quarry yielding one of the most precious kinds of marble in the world, original Celtic witches and druids. This extraordinary guide will tell you which church alter a human skull is walled into, where rallies run madly around the mountains; about where the Doppler Effect comes from, where the only outdoor organ pulls out all its stops, where defenceless women were burned as witches in the 17th century, which house, with a width of 1.42 meters, is the city's smallest, where Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz had a rendezvous - and, finally, where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart thought up "The Magic Flute".