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A history of Mount Everest expedition is intertwined with the disastrous expedition the author was a part of, during which five members were killed by a hurricane-strength blizzard. When Jon Krakauer reached the summit of Mt. Everest in the early afternoon of May 10, 1996, he hadn't slept in fifty-seven hours and was reeling from the brain-altering effects of oxygen depletion. As he turned to begin his long, dangerous descent from 29,028 feet, twenty other climbers were still pushing doggedly toward the top. No one had noticed that the sky had begun to fill with clouds. Six hours later and 3,000 feet lower, in 70-knot winds and blinding snow, Krakauer collapsed in his tent, freezing, hallucinating from exhaustion and hypoxia, but safe. The following morning he learned that six of his fellow climbers hadn't made it back to their camp and were in a desperate struggle for their lives. When the storm finally passed, five of them would be dead, and the sixth so horribly frostbitten that his right hand would have to be amputated. Krakauer examines what it is about Everest that has compelled so many people - including himself - to throw caution to the wind, ignore the concerns of loved ones, and willingly subject themselves to such risk, hardship, and expense. Written with emotional clarity and supported by his unimpeachable reporting, Krakauer's eye-witness account of what happened on the roof of the world is a singular achievement.… (més)
marzipanz: It may seem like an obvious recommendation, but I would really urge everybody to read The Climb instead of or in addition to Into Thin Air. It really sheds a completely new light on some of what Krakauer writes, and - to me - seemed a far more convincing account of some of the events.… (més)
oregonobsessionz: While The Climb is not an easy read like Into Thin Air, it does provide a different perspective on the disaster, and answers some of Krakauer's criticisms of Boukreev's actions.
bluepiano: I may be the only reader of Krakauer's book who thought Boukreev came across as a hero in it. The Climb is a heartening reminder that experience, intelligence, and calm can be the makings of heroism, and it's quite interesting as well.
BookWallah: If you liked Into Thin Air, then you are ready for the mountaineering classic, Everest: The West Ridge. This sparse first person account of the other American team that came after Whitaker in 1963 and put up a route that has seldom been repeated.
normandie_m: The events in this book re-opened discussion of the controversies surrounding the 1996 disaster. Heil examines similar themes, particularly the ethical dilemma of whether or not to offer assistance to/rescuing sick climbers when one's own health and supplies such as oxygen are depleted.… (més)
I've been wanting to read this ever since I became obsessed with extreme mountaineering survival and disaster stories. There's something about people willingly venturing into an environment so hostile to human life, and the ways that can go wrong, and the moral questions that come up in these extreme situations, that is utterly fascinating to me.
Jon Krakauer was present during the 1996 Everest disaster, when a storm engulfed climbers on the highest slopes of the mountain and several lives were lost. He seems to be quite honest in his account, the mistakes he made, and committed to giving his companions a fair hearing. He is frank that altitude sickness may have affected his memories, and his realisation that he may have been wrong about who he saw enter camp is haunting.
A great window into the world of extreme mountaineering, the psychology that drives summit fever, and how small decisions can so quickly turn to disaster in such an environment. ( )
First sentence: In March 1996, Outside magazine sent me to Nepal to participate in, and write about, a guided ascent of Mount Everest. I went as one of eight clients on an expedition led by a well-known guide from New Zealand named Rob Hall.
Premise/plot: Jon Krakauer shares his [expanded] experiences on a fateful trip to Mount Everest in the spring of 1996. Not all on his expedition 'team' survived their attempt to the summit. The book is slightly confusing in that there were dozens (probably) of different expedition teams led by various people all attempting to climb Mount Everest. The teams weren't exactly taking turns or going in any specific order. So a handful of teams--with six plus people each--could be near one another on the mountain. His story isn't solely focused on his expedition team. It's about those attempting to make the summit on one specific day, May 10, 1996. It turned out to be a very dangerous day in part because of an unexpected storm/blizzard. His story was about--I believe--the risks of commercialization. Is Mount Everest something that should be attempted by just anyone who could pay...or does it require a certain amount of skills, fitness, and experience. Is money more important than safety? That is just the 'big picture' take-away that I got from his journalistic angle (at the beginning). There were and are many other concerns.
My thoughts: The movie was definitely more action-packed and engaging. I am less sure that it is faithful and true to the events. I think here an there that might be some sensationalizing. I think things might be condensed and arranged for the most drama impact. Perhaps. I watched the movie first. Found it very engaging and exciting. I put the book on hold within hours of watching the movie. The book moved at a much slower pace. For better or worse. It was haunting in its own way. I do think the movie might have had fewer characters it was following.
I had to stop reading this while eating because the stress was giving me stomach cramps. The author's writing is so vivid, so compelling, and the story is truly horrifying. In the Prologue the author explains that he wrote the book so soon after the disaster in part to help himself process everything that took place up there, and I could really feel that come through in his writing (this is not a criticism, it is a compliment). Grappling with the choices everyone made, how people's flaws or prejudices or bravery or tenacity played a role, would absolutely require some heavy-duty processing for a survivor, and it makes for fascinating reading. Highly, highly recommend. ( )
What a fast, thrilling, pulse-racing read. I think I must have seen the IMAX film year ago that was being done at the same time as this book's events, because a lot of this sounded familiar. So much tragedy, so much to go wrong. I think this book could have done with more perspectives from the survivors, but it is well told and devastating. I am not an adrenaline junky, and you will never find me risking serious discomfort for bragging rights. I have tent camped in freezing rain in Yellowstone enough as a child to be happy with a heated bedroom the rest of my days. But there is something about the drive, pushing beyond your limits, and achieving what the corpses along your path couldn't that is still breathtaking and inspiring. I am going to look for more adventure disaster books now. ( )
An experienced climber himself, Mr. Krakauer gives us both a tactile appreciation of the dangerous allure of mountaineering and a compelling chronicle of the bad luck, bad judgment and doomed heroism that led to the deaths of his climbing companions.
Informació del coneixement compartit en anglès.Modifica-la per localitzar-la a la teva llengua.
Men play at tragedy because they do not believe in the reality of the tragey which is actually being staged in the civilised world. —José Ortega y Gasset
Dedicatòria
Informació del coneixement compartit en anglès.Modifica-la per localitzar-la a la teva llengua.
For Linda; and in memory of Andy Harris, Doug Hansen, Rob Hall, Yasuko Namba, Scott Fischer, Ngawang Topche Sherpa, Chen Yu-Nana, Bruce Herrod, and Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa
Primeres paraules
Informació del coneixement compartit en anglès.Modifica-la per localitzar-la a la teva llengua.
Straddling the top of the world, one foot in China and the other in Nepal, I cleared the ice from my oxygen mask, hunched a shoulder against the wind, and stared absently down at the vastness of Tibet.
Citacions
Informació del coneixement compartit en anglès.Modifica-la per localitzar-la a la teva llengua.
Getting to the top of any given mountain was considered much less important than how one got there: prestige was earned by tackling the most unforgiving routes with minimal equipment, in the boldest style imaginable. John Krakauer
Darreres paraules
Informació del coneixement compartit en anglès.Modifica-la per localitzar-la a la teva llengua.
Beidleman paused. "But I can't help thinking about Yasuko," he said when he resumed, his voice hushed. "She was so little. I can still feel her fingers sliding across my biceps, and then letting go. I never even turned to look back."
A history of Mount Everest expedition is intertwined with the disastrous expedition the author was a part of, during which five members were killed by a hurricane-strength blizzard. When Jon Krakauer reached the summit of Mt. Everest in the early afternoon of May 10, 1996, he hadn't slept in fifty-seven hours and was reeling from the brain-altering effects of oxygen depletion. As he turned to begin his long, dangerous descent from 29,028 feet, twenty other climbers were still pushing doggedly toward the top. No one had noticed that the sky had begun to fill with clouds. Six hours later and 3,000 feet lower, in 70-knot winds and blinding snow, Krakauer collapsed in his tent, freezing, hallucinating from exhaustion and hypoxia, but safe. The following morning he learned that six of his fellow climbers hadn't made it back to their camp and were in a desperate struggle for their lives. When the storm finally passed, five of them would be dead, and the sixth so horribly frostbitten that his right hand would have to be amputated. Krakauer examines what it is about Everest that has compelled so many people - including himself - to throw caution to the wind, ignore the concerns of loved ones, and willingly subject themselves to such risk, hardship, and expense. Written with emotional clarity and supported by his unimpeachable reporting, Krakauer's eye-witness account of what happened on the roof of the world is a singular achievement.
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Jon Krakauer was present during the 1996 Everest disaster, when a storm engulfed climbers on the highest slopes of the mountain and several lives were lost. He seems to be quite honest in his account, the mistakes he made, and committed to giving his companions a fair hearing. He is frank that altitude sickness may have affected his memories, and his realisation that he may have been wrong about who he saw enter camp is haunting.
A great window into the world of extreme mountaineering, the psychology that drives summit fever, and how small decisions can so quickly turn to disaster in such an environment. (